Jump to content
inTank Media Baskets

Air Powered Auto Topoff


willtel

Recommended Posts

Well since I am almost done with my auto top off system I thought I would go ahead and make a post about how I solved this issue on my tank.

 

Instead of using a powerhead or other submersible pump I decided to use an air pump and airline tubing for my system. I think it has a few advantages over a pump powered system.

 

1. No submersible pump to worry about cleaning or not starting if kalk deposits get in the pump

2. Water is added to the tank very slowly. This is useful when using kalk as makeup water.

3. Small airline tubing is very easy to plumb and hide in the tank and stand.

4. Decent amount of 'head pressure' can be overcome with a good pump and sturdy container.

5. Easy to avoid kalk precipitate by adjusting the length of the pickup tube.

 

Here is how my system works.

 

A float switch from http://www.floatswitches.net is mounted in the tank and turns the air pump on and off. The air pump is connected by airline tubing to the carboy, the carboy has two tubes going into the lid, one short and one long tube that reaches to the bottom of the carboy. When the pump comes on it pushes air into the carboy and then the top off water is pushed out of the long tube and into the tank. Once the water level has risen enough the switch turns off and the water stops.

 

I have to admit the hardest parts of the system was finding a container of decent size with a tight sealing lid that wouldn't give away under the air pressure. Once I found the Nalgene Labware website (http://www.nalgenelabware.com/) I thought I was home free but a new carboy like mine is about $85!! I found some used ones on eBay for $11 and I was all set.

 

Here are some pictures of the set up so you can see how it works.

 

This one shows the float switch and the hard output tube connected to my tank.

 

322687962_815cdf7518_o.jpg

 

Here it is in action.

 

322687995_8da0943512_o.jpg

 

Here is a wider angle. You can see the kalk mixing under the tube.

 

322688043_5ae7fd9178_o.jpg

 

Here is the carboy in my stand.

 

322688074_5c0e8ee649_o.jpg

 

A shot of the tubes in the lid.

 

322688123_c7e96664f8_o.jpg

 

 

And some tank shots just because.

 

322688156_8f14bd4b2d_o.jpg

 

235080457_d7eb99bd9a.jpg

 

I still have a few things to do before I will call the system complete. I want to make an acrylic bracket to hold the float switch, I don't trust the suction cup since it has come loose a few times. Right now I don't leave the pump plugged in but I should be able to once I get the switch mounted. I also want to put the switch inside a drilled tube so that no snails can't crawl onto it and cause a flood. After I get that done I think I'm all set. Let me know if I can help anyone out on there own system.

Link to comment
  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Dude, this is really sweet! I really like this idea, chiefly because I don't have a spare powerhead available, and I like the idea of a slow drip into the tank! Let us know how it works out!

 

Again, really cool engineering.

Link to comment

nice job willtel... I've done some testing with an air pump and a 2 liter coke bottle as an air driven top off and it seems to work ok. (I've been using exactly the same air pump as you btw). I guess if you wanted a larger capacity you could just put more coke bottles in series...

Link to comment
DeskJockey

Very cool

 

Im making something very similar for my kalk. The only thing I suggest (if you have the space) have a separate container with the kalk. Have the water from the top-off container enter the kalk container (must be filled with water) through the long tubing so it gently stirs the kalk forcing clear kalk out the top. This avoids having any of the powder go into the tank or clogging the line & keeps the kalk active by stirring it every time water is added.

Link to comment
freakaccident

I tried the same thing but it took too long for the pressure in the bottle to release enough that the water would stop flowing. It would flow about 3 minutes after the float switch shut the airpump off.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...
junglejim83

I made the same thing...I just used a new plastic gas can. ALthough i never got around to getting the float switch. I'l get one now

Link to comment

I'm using a similar setup, same pump, float switch from Cameron (physh1) and a 3 gallon container from a water store a couple of blocks away from me. The container has a screw on lid and is rigid enough to add just a half a cup or less of water everytime the pump gets turned on/off.

 

It's been working pretty well for me, no problems with the water getting to the tank (3-4 ft above the container) I've tested the line to 6 ft and it works pretty well too.

Link to comment
donkeykong

How does that float switch work. And how much did the whole thing come out to. I am starting to think this would be a good idea

Link to comment
  • 5 months later...
saltyFISHscales

willtell, have you had any problems with that switch from that web page? I purchased the same one, but Im hesitant to use it. Someone told me that i should use a relay between my switch and my powerhead. Any advise?

Link to comment

I have been using that float switch since I originally posted this tread and I have only cleaned it once. No problems yet for me. I did end up building a small acrylic cup for it to sit in so no snails could get to it but so far it has worked perfectly. Mine is wired directly to my air pump with no relay.

 

Here are a few updated shots of the tank.

nano1.jpgnano2.jpg

Link to comment

Nooo!!! I came up with the air-powered topoff idea all by myself a couple days ago, and I see now that you beat me to it! Shoot. Now nobody will believe me.

 

Nice engineering, BTW. And the tank ain't half bad, either. ;)

Link to comment
Mr_NanoReefer

I "second" JDMEF-9's question...

Do you have any detailed pictures (or descriptions) of the wiring to the air pump?

 

Also, how did you seal the tubes entering the carboy. I'm sure I could use some type of sealant, but just wondering if you had a creative solution.

 

Thanks for a great DIY!!

Link to comment

There really is no wiring done to the air pump itself. The float switch I bought from www.floatswitches.net was already connected to a simple extension cord. The extension cord has only two wires (it is not a three prong grounded cord) so the float switch is soldered into one of the wires. It doesn't matter what wire is used since either one will break the circuit.

 

Quick and dirty explanation: Take an extension cord and cut one of the leads on the cord. Solder each lead of the float switch wires to each end of the now cut extension cord leads. Now when you cycle the switch the power will turn on and off at the cords socket. Just plug the air pump into the cord and your all set.

 

For sealing the tubes to the lid of the carboy I used silicon for the first round and it came loose after I changed the bottle out few times. I pulled it all apart used super glue gel and it is holding up great.

 

If you guys really need a picture of the wiring I can take one but it is stone simple.

Link to comment
Mr_NanoReefer

willtel... thanks for explaining the wiring (no pictures needed) and how you sealed the tubes. ...glad to hear the float switches from www.floatswitches.net come prewired to an extension cord (just one less thing to worry about).

 

I just purchased a Nalgene 10L carboy (from ebay for $11) and a float switch (from www.floatswitches.net). Can't wait to get this up and going.

Link to comment
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys

I have my Floatswitch and Extension Cord(which I had to Buy Floatswitch didn't come with one)....

Now I have Notice that other Water/Air Top of Units use a Plastic tube to protect the Wires for the Floatswitch..Now Does need to be done or could I run one with out it..

 

And Could I use those 5 gallon Jugs I use to refill my tank?Its air tight...

 

plmk rene

Link to comment

Hi all. I have been following this thread now with some interest. However, I am going to try something a bit different. Let me tell you why.

 

I ORIGINALLY had a auto-topoff system connected to my 90 gallon reef tank and was activated by a float switch (the same ones you all are using right now) the float switch was located in the sump and when the sump level got low the float switch would kick in....a powerhead would feed fresh RO/DI water into my Kalk Reactor and then out of the top of the reactor fresh kalkwasser would enter the sump and fill it until the float switch raised up enough to shut off. SIMPLE RIGHT? well kinda..........

 

my float switch activated both my water pump and a small mixing pump to mix the Kalk in the bottom of the reactor, hence killing two birds with one stone. Well my float switch FAILED one day about a month after it was all up and running, and emptied 5 gallons of fresh RO water 3 cups of Kalkwasser into my sump and then on up to my reef tank, turning my entire tank milky white, you couldn't see anything.

 

Anyway, I did some very quick water changes, but the pH spike did kill most of my fish, and probably 40% of my coral stock..roughly $1000 worth of livestock in less than 60 seconds was gone.

 

MY REMEDY for this to NEVER happen again. instead of relying on a simple mechanical device like the float switch, I switched the pump that pumped fresh water to the kalk reactor to a perstaltic pump. I could adjust the amount of output via an up or down button, and it effectively now keeps my sump exactly at the level I want it to. No switch to eventually fail or OVERDOSE the tank.

 

I am going to setup this same setup on my new 7 gallon minibow I think....one container will hold fresh RO/DI water, and pump it VIA A PERISTALTIC PUMP to the Kalkreactor, then on up to the tank.

 

SIMPLE and very effective and will NEVER OVERDOSE the tank which in my book is very important.

 

Sorry this post is so long, but thanks for reading it.

 

Dan:P

Link to comment

newbyreef,

 

I don't trust float switches either. That's why I have two, wired in series, to prevent disastrous over topoff.

 

By running two pumps off the float switch, you may have exceeded it's maximum amperage/wattage rating. Maybe not during normal running but when you first switch on any motor (powerhead/pump), it draws a whole bunch more juice for a second or three until it comes up to speed (inductive load). I suspect this may have have contributed to your disaster.

 

I'd be just as scared of a persistalic pump. Since temperature and therefore evaporation constantly varies, your persistalic will always be pumping a little too much or a not quite enough. That may balance out over the course of a day, but get an unusually hot or cold week and you could get way off. A float switch adapts to such swings.

 

There is no perfect solution. You may even consider a combination of persistalic pumps and float switches to reduce the dangers of each.

 

My ideal solution would be to use a gravity fed, vacuum-controlled topoff. No moving parts, no electricity. But building one was beyond my skill though, which is why I went with the dual-redundant float switch setup.

Link to comment

How much does your water have to drop before the switch turns the air pump on? I have been looking around but most of the ones I have seen don't turn on until the lever has droped 1/2". Granted, that it is still nicer than having to remember every night, but that still seems like too much flucuation. Otherwise nice implementation.

Link to comment

The ones from floatswitches.net claim 1/4" of travel, but in my experience it's a lot less than that. I can't see any difference in water height from right before to right after a topoff. That could be because I have two switches, though. You might see more fluctuation with a single switch.

Link to comment

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recommended Discussions


×
×
  • Create New...