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Cultivated Reef

Viewpoints - A Photographic Journal of my Reef Tank


urbaneks

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Hey Brad,

 

Great to see you starting a new tank! I loved your old JBJ and it really inspired me for a lot of the work that has gone into my own. Still running your media basket, as well. Can't wait to see how this new venture turns out for you, I'm sure it will be something special. I haven't been very active around here, lots of changes in my life throughout the last year, but I'll definitely be tagging along for this thread.

 

Good luck and keep the pics coming!

 

-Matt

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Viewpoints - Water Change Routine and New Journal Images

 

Water Changes

Nothing makes the tank look better and nothing cures tank burnout better than a water change. A water change just really makes you appreciate what you have. Up until 6 weeks ago, I was doing weekly water changes but have since went to every two weeks. The jury is still out on which method works better for me. It's really a give and take as I feel like my corals hit some of their best color as I get close to the two week mark. The take away is I start to get brown diatoms on the sand bed and the water does not have that crystal clear appearance in the last week. I attribute the better color to the water building up the supplements that I dose thus being more available for the corals.

 

Friday's are water change day thus today was the day. My typical water change is 12g which accounts for just over 10% of the water volume. I like to alternate where I pull the water/detritus from. For example, water change one will start in the overflow box, after cutting the return pump and shutting an isolation valve, I vacuum the water from the overflow box while pulling all the waste from the bottom of it. This is a common place for waste to collect. Once the overflow box is empty, I complete the rest of the water change from the tank as I vacuum about 1/3 of the sand bed. 2 weeks later I will start by pulling water from the sump and vacuum all the waste from the sump, once the waste is gone, I move to the tank and vacuum the middle 1/3 of the sand bed. Two weeks after than I will pull water from just the tank and vacuum the remainder of the gravel. When I had my nano, I went about a year without vacuuming the sand bed, I will not do that anymore. Even with as much as I vacuum, it is down right amazing how much waste I pull out of the sand bed.

 

My tank has 100lbs of live rock which is right at 1lb per gallon of water. My sand bed is primarily for aesthetics, I don't rely on it for filtration but count strictly on the live rock as my biological filtration. I do add MB7 after my water changes to help boost my filtration.

 

 

 

Duncan Coral

The photograph below is one I took today of my Duncan Coral which is just one of the 3 LPS corals that I have in the tank. I originally bought this Duncan for the Nano Cube more than 2 years ago. When I bought the Duncan it had just 4 heads on it. I tried to count tonight and stopped at 40. For reference I've included a second photo of the same Duncan when it was in my Nano Cube. Looking back at the old photo, makes me realize home much more color it has now which can be seen in the third photo. While the Duncan is not a favorite, I do love the movement it adds to right side of my tank and I thought the first picture was especially interesting.

 

Duncan2.jpg

Photograph taken today 1-20-12

 

Group3Duncan.jpg

Photograph taken more than 2 years ago of the same coral

 

Duncan-1.jpg

Photograph taken today 1-20-12 which shows the color change

 

 

Coral Additions

While I would love to go on a major shopping spree, I have to limit the coral purchases. I try to only go to the LFS once every two weeks. When I go, I have the intention of buying just one piece and it has to be something I absolutely love. If I can't find something that I love, I will leave empty handed. I do feel fortunate to have two stores in the Phoenix area that I consider great stores. The first one that I frequent is Reef Culture. This one is the closest to my house so it's typically where I go. The guys there know me by name which is appreciated. The second store that I go to is Aqua Touch. This is another great store but unfortunately it's 45 miles from my house. Before Reef Culture opened, I use to make this drive once a month for salt water and of course, coral. Again, Joe at Aqua Touch knows me my name and is one of the nicest guys you will ever meet. The one thing I would add is that I drive by 2 other stores to get to Reef Culture and 5 stores to get Aqua Touch. If any of you visit the Phoenix area, skip the other stores just as I do. These are the two must see shops.

 

This week I made a trip the Reef Culture and found what just might be my new favorite coral. The picture below is the new addition which is a Strawberry Shortcake. It's funny because, this same frag was in the store 2 weeks before and it did not stand out to me even with one of the guys telling me to get it. After a second trip 2 weeks later and the guys again telling me that was the one, I decided to pull the trigger. Since getting it home, it has really opened up nicely and the color is amazing.

 

Strawberry.jpg

Strawberry Shortcake - Added 1/18/12

 

The coral shown below, is a stag of some kind. I can't remember the name but will be sure to ask the next time I'm in Reef Culture. This particular frag is one that they cut from their main display tank. What I love about this coral is how the blue and gray alternates down the stalk of the coral. Absolutely beautiful. While this coral is just 1.5 inches long now, I look forward to this stag growing the height of the tank.

 

Stag.jpg

Stag Coral - Note the alternating blue and gray colors throughout the coral

 

I might as well end this journal entry with another picture of the Chili Pepper Monti. Just like the Strawberry Shortcake and the Stag, this frag came out of the main display tank at Reef Culture. The mother colony of this coral must be one foot wide and 10 inches tall. The growth pattern on the mother is beautiful. What I like most about it is that unlike most encrusting monti's, this one starts to add height as well. While this one is just getting going, it does have a couple spots on it where it's starting to grow upward.

 

ChilliPepper2.jpg

Chili Pepper Monti

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Two weeks after than I will pull water from just the tank and vacuum the remainder of the gravel. When I had my nano, I went about a year without vacuuming the sand bed, I will not do that anymore. Even with as much as I vacuum, it is down right amazing how much waste I pull out of the sand bed.

 

I like the appearance of the coarse sand, but I think it's more work to upkeep. Do you think a finer sand bed would require less vacuuming?

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Hey Brad,

 

Great to see you starting a new tank! I loved your old JBJ and it really inspired me for a lot of the work that has gone into my own. Still running your media basket, as well. Can't wait to see how this new venture turns out for you, I'm sure it will be something special. I haven't been very active around here, lots of changes in my life throughout the last year, but I'll definitely be tagging along for this thread.

 

Good luck and keep the pics coming!

 

-Matt

 

Telekinesis (Matt) - It's great to hear from you and I'm very glad to hear that basket is still working out for you in the JBJ. I hesitated putting the new tank on Nano Reef just because it is not a nano. I'm glad I decided to post it here as I really missed the community that makes up Nano-Reef.com. Thanks for your views, comments and tagging along. I posted a few new pics last night so take a look.

 

I like the appearance of the coarse sand, but I think it's more work to upkeep. Do you think a finer sand bed would require less vacuuming?

 

uglyfish - Just like you, I like the appearance of the course sand bed much more than the fine sand bed. My sand bed is for aesthetics so I don't mind vacuuming it at all. As for more or less work, I can't comment as I've never had fine sand. I've seen plenty of pictures of fine sand beds that look bad so I know they get dirty as well. A couple thing that would prevent me from ever having a fine sand bed is the fact that you can't vacuum it. The fine sand gets pulled out along with the detritus. The thing is that the vortechs constantly pull the sand up in the water column and the tank doesn't look clear. I guess in the end it comes down to personal preference and the pros for me out weigh the cons by a long shot.

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Viewpoints - 1/22/12 Photo Update

 

 

Just wanted to post a couple new photos that were taken this weekend.

 

The first picture was one that I posted on the NR.com home page as well. Of all the photos I've taken of fish, this is my all time favorite. The face is perfectly in focus, the detail on the eye is beautiful and the color is true to what you see with the eyes. I also like the shallow depth of focus which really pulls your attention to the face of the fish. Looking at the picture, it's amazing how much the YWG resemble frogs. The only thing that would make this photo better is if his Pistol Shrimp partner were in it as well.

 

Watchman-1.jpg

 

 

Unfortunately, this photo is underexposed and does not show the true color of the Red Planet. I went ahead and posted the picture because i think it shows good PE and I want to record the growth point of this coral. It's been encrusting quickly so I'm hoping to see new branches soon.

 

RedPlanet.jpg

 

I'm posting this picture for a couple reasons, first because it was my first ever SPS coral. This coral goes back 2+ years to the Nano Cube. It started out as a 1" frag and I now have 4 large colonies from it. I guess you could say that this is the coral that started my obsession with SPS. I'm actually at a point where I need to frag and trade of frag and sell some of it. The other reason I post it is I have yet to see another strain of Birds Nest that has better color. This color really is an atomic green like you see in the photo.

 

BirdsNest-1.jpg

 

Until next time, thanks for looking and I appreciate your comments.

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Viewpoints - Maintenance Schedule in Detail

 

I posted a screen shot of my maintenance schedule about a week ago and I've received several PM's asking for it along with follow up emails with questions about it. I thought I would provide an explanation here for anyone who is interested. The maintenance schedule is an excel file that has multiple tabs, I will explain each tab and provide some screen shots of each.

 

Tab 1 - Maintenance Schedule

Schedule.jpg

The primary tab in the spreadsheet is the maintenance schedule. The schedule is broken down into 3 main sections; maintenance tasks, dosing schedule and coral feeding schedule. The purpose of this tab is to track the maintenance that is coming up as well as what has been performed in the past. In addition, I track what has been dosed and what has been fed. This allows me to compare what has been done with my test results and know if I can increase feeding, need to dose more, etc, etc.

 

My maintenance schedule can be broken down into 8 different preventative maintenance tasks or PM's. Daily PM, Bi-Weekly PM, Quarterly PM, Semi Annual PM, Annual PM, Water Changes and last Phoslock and Carbon Changes. I will take a minute to explain the tasks that are in each PM and the time it takes to complete the PM.

 

Daily PM - Duration: 5 minutes

Feed and Observe Live Stock

Dose Per Schedule

General Equipment Check

Clean Glass if Needed

 

Bi-Weekly PM - Duration 15 minutes

Test Water

Clean Skimmer Cup

Use baster on rocks and corals

Fill ATO

Clean Salt Creep from Sump and Equipment

Clean Overflow Sponges

 

Water Changes - Duration: 1 hour

My typical water change is 12g which accounts for just over 10% of the water volume. I like to alternate where I pull the water/detritus from. For example, water change one will start in the overflow box, after cutting the return pump and shutting an isolation valve, I vacuum the water from the overflow box while pulling all the waste from the bottom of it. This is a common place for waste to collect. Once the overflow box is empty, I complete the rest of the water change from the tank as I vacuum about 1/3 of the sand bed. 2 weeks later I will start by pulling water from the sump and vacuum all the waste from the sump, once the waste is gone, I move to the tank and vacuum the middle 1/3 of the sand bed. Two weeks after than I will pull water from just the tank and vacuum the remainder of the gravel. When I had my nano, I went about a year without vacuuming the sand bed, I will not do that anymore. Even with as much as I vacuum, it is down right amazing how much waste I pull out of the sand bed.

 

Quarterly PM - Duration: 1.5 hours

Clean Return Pump

Clean Skimmer Pump

Clean Heater

Clean pH and Temp Probes

Clean Media Reactor and Pump

Clean Inside Pipe Work

 

Semi-Annual PM - Duration: 30 minutes

Replace RODI Filters

Restock CUC as Needed

Frag Corals

Calibrate pH and Temp Probes

 

Annual PM - Duration: 30 minutes

Replace pH and Temp Probes

Replace Bulbs

Replace Heater

 

 

Tabs 2 and 3 - Water Test Data and Charts

The 2nd and 3rd tabs are where I log my water tests and those tests are then charted onto line graphs. I test my water twice a week which I'm sure is more than I have to but it allows me to catch undesirable changes to my water chemistry so it can be corrected quickly. I test for Calcium, Alkalinity, Phosphates, Nitrates, Magnesium and Specific Gravity. I've tried several different test kits and the ones that I like are as follows; Calcium - Elos, Alkalinity and Phosphates - Hanna Meters, Nitrates and Magnesium - Salifert and I use a Sybon Refractometer to test my Specific Gravity.

 

Water Test Data Entry

The image below shows a screen shot of what the data entry tab looks like. You will notice that I have a goal for each parameter as well as an upper control limit and lower control limit. I use these limits to help make decisions on when actions are required to address the water chemistry.

 

TestData.jpg

 

Control Charts

The image below shows one of the graphs that is produced with the data that is entered into the sheet shown above. The nice thing about the spreadsheet is that all you have to do is enter your data and it will graph it for you. In the graph below you can see the upper and lower control limits as well as the goal and the current reading. Where you see the shift down in the goal and control limits is a point where I decided to run the aquarium at a lower alkalinity. From time to time, I will make changes to the goal of a parameter based on how the tank is progressing.

 

ControlChart.jpg

 

Remaining Tabs in the Maintenance Schedule

I have additional tabs in the spreadsheet that track the following;

- Light Schedule

- Dosing Calculators for the products that I use

- Logs for Bulb Install Dates, RODI Filter Install Dates, Calcium and Alkalinity readings from new batches of salt.

- Previous Months of Maintenance

- Shopping List

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Viewpoints - Equipment Review

 

Equipment Panel

As I mentioned one of my goals for this aquarium is to have a setup that is free from clutter. With all of my equipment arriving 3 weeks before the aquarium, I’ve had plenty of time to work on a panel to hold and display my equipment. Once the tank and stand arrives, this panel will be mounted to the back wall inside my stand. The equipment panel should keep all of my wiring maintained and easy to work with.

 

Electronics.jpg

Equipment Panel - Built to Keep the Wire Management Clean and Organized

 

The panel is made out 1/4" MDF Board from Home Depot. Cost on the board was less than $3. The board was cut to accommodate the size of components and inner dimensions of the stand. Once the board was cut to size, a single coat of black paint went on to cover the MDF and match the stand. Once the paint was dry, the equipment was laid out and holes were cut where cords needed to transition to the back of the panel.

 

Ballast.jpg

Geisemann Ballasts Mounted to the Panel - Holes Cut to Allow Cords to Transition to the Back of the Panel

 

I used a #7 metric bolt, 1/4" spacers and matching hardware to mount the equipment to the panel. The 1/4" spacers allow breathing room underneath the equipment. I'm hopeful that this will help with heat dispersement and allow heat to escape from underneath the individual pieces of equipment.

 

EB8.jpg

Neptune Energy Bar - Mounted to the Panel. Note 1/4" Spacers Under the Equipment and the Gap it Creates From the Panel

 

I underestimated the total weight of the equipment, especailly the ballasts and battery backup (the weight of the battery back up is 20lbs alone). As a result of the weight, the 1/4" MDF was very flimsy and was not going to last without some modification. Rather than rework the entire board, I used some 3/8" acrylic to create a border around the outside of the panel (see first photo). The acrylic helped to solidify the panel and dresses it up a bit. While I'm happy with the end result, if I had to do it over again, I'd use at least 1/2" MDF.

 

vortech.jpg

Vortech Controllers - Mounted Mid Height to the Equipment Panel to Allow Easy Adjustments

 

The cost on the panel ended up being under $15 and took me about 5 hours to complete. Most of that time was wire tying the cords to the back of the panel. This was accomplished with zip ties and tie clips. As a finishing touch, I used colored wire labels to label each cord and the corresponding outlet on the controller. This will ensure that cords are plugged back into their programmed outlets on the controller. The colored labels can be seen throughout the photos embedded above.

 

 

Lighting

 

MH/T5 Combo or LEDs – A Difficult Decision

Aside from the dimensions of the aquarium, the lighting was my most difficult decision. I had it narrowed down to the Geisemann Infiniti and Aqua Illumination. While the cost for the two lights was very comparable, the pluses and minus could not be more different. Just when I was set with LEDs, I would see another beautiful aquarium with a MH/T5 combination. Then just when I was set on MH/T5, I would flip back to the power consumption and heat concerns. I must have made this decision five different times before placing my order. I ultimately chose the Geisemann for the proven performance, finished look and extensive features.

 

Proven Performance

Throughout my research there were three different aquariums that were influential in my lighting decision. Each thread had one thing in common, the Geisemann Infiniti. It was very difficult for me to pull the trigger on LED’s knowing the success that was being had with the Infiniti. In all three aquariums, I felt like the growth and color of the SPS was superior to other fixtures that I had researched.

 

Light2.jpg

With the 2x250W MH's and 4X54W T5's, the Fixture Offers Countless Color Combinations

 

A Finished Look

My aquarium is being installed in a finished library with traditional furniture. With the décor of the room, the finish of the fixture was very important to me. In my opinion, one of the downfalls of the Aqua Illuminations is the unfinished look when mounted to the hanging kit. The Infiniti on the other hand is a beautiful lighting fixture that fits right into the room. From the sleek lines, grated metal, and soft painted finish, Geisemann did an outstanding job finishing this fixture.

 

Light1.jpg

The Finishing Touches on the Infiniti are Outstanding. Geisemann's Attention to Detail is 2nd to None.

 

Extensive Features

There are a few other factors that I really liked about the Infiniti. The antiglare properties is one that I’m really excited about. My tank will be rimless and the light will be mounted about 10 inches above of the aquarium. The way the Geisemann is built the T5 bulbs point inward and the MH bulbs are slightly recessed. This design keeps the light directed into the tank instead of towards those viewing the tank. I was sold on how quiet the Geisemann operates. The light disperses heat without fans so the actual light operates silently. The only noise that is put out by the Geisemann comes from the ballasts and it will not be heard once they are installed in the stand. Last, I liked that the Geisemann came standard with a hanging kit, one less expense in an already growing equipment bill.

 

Light3.jpg

The Geisemann Comes Standard with a Hanging Kit and Operates Silently

 

 

The Search for the Perfect Sump

Early in my research, I came across a sump at my LFS. I was immediately intrigued by it because of its size, built in refugium and integrated ATO reservoir. On the flipside, I was immediately turned off by the price of $370. From this point on, I didn’t spend much time researching sumps, however, I spent a great deal of time trying to find a cheaper option that measured up to the gold standard. During my search I found several alternatives with refugiums but never one with a built in ATO reservoir. In the end, I decided to pay the premium and get the custom sump from my LFS.

 

Sump2.jpg

After finding this custom sump at my LFS, nothing else measured up

 

The Sump Details

The sump measures 30x18x16 and holds 37 gallons of water when completely full. I estimate that the sump will hold 20 gallons of water when the return pump is running. The skimmer section is 17” long by 18” wide. This section of the sump will easily fit an oversized skimmer and a Zeo Reactor. The ATO reservoir will hold 6 gallons of water. With the reservoir being integrated into the sump, it only takes up an additional 6” under the stand. Without a basement or fish room for my equipment, real estate under my stand is precious. I’m hopeful that the reservoir will provide me 10 to 14 days worth of top off water but with the open top, I’m thinking seven is more realistic. An additional feature of the sump that initially excited me was the built in refugium.

 

Sump1.jpg

Custom Sump - Built-in Refugium, Integrated ATO Reservoir and a Huge Skimmer Section

 

Sump Layout

Water enters the sump through the inlet chamber and is forced through a baffle into the refugium. From the refugium the water is sent through vents and another baffle before it hits the skimmer/reactor section. After the water is skimmed it flows to the return chamber where it sent back up to the display. Due to the multiple baffles, micro-bubbles are supposed to be non existent with this sump. The ATO reservoir is connected to the sump and has a small opening for tubing to be ran between the reservoir and the sump.

 

Sump3.jpg

Here is a pictorial representation of how the sump is laid out.

 

Equipment.jpg

Everything but the tank, when this was taken my tank was still 3 weeks from delivery

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Looking good!

 

IIX - Thank you!

 

The tank looks amazing.

 

I love this picture!

 

animalmaster - Thanks for the kind words. I too love that photo of the Yellow Watchman Goby.

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I don't know if you've answered this already or not, but what kind of sand is in this display? This is the look I'm going for in my new setup, and my only experience with sand has been sugar grain size, which I've found not to work very well with Vortechs.

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I don't know if you've answered this already or not, but what kind of sand is in this display? This is the look I'm going for in my new setup, and my only experience with sand has been sugar grain size, which I've found not to work very well with Vortechs.

 

TheWAND - Thanks for stopping by the tank journal. The sand that I'm using is called Special Grade Reef Sand which is made by CaribSea. I used the Arag-Alive version because I did not want to rinse sand for a week but they also sell a dry version of the same product. Here is a link to their product webpage.

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You've inspired me to go bigger and to do it right. I really like CAD Lights 100g Artisan and I'm about to order one. Besides the bonehead freight company busting your first tank, overall are you happy with the build quality and with the way CAD Lights has treated you?

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urbaneks, was the stand a custom job by cadlights or do they usually stock stands in those dimensions?

 

twan - the stand was custom but also very inexpensive compared to other stands that I priced. What CadLights did was cut and assemble the glass and then build the stand in the 10 day period where the tank can't be moved. Other than the doors being a bit unlevel, the stand is nice quality and built out of 100% solid maple wood.

 

You've inspired me to go bigger and to do it right. I really like CAD Lights 100g Artisan and I'm about to order one. Besides the bonehead freight company busting your first tank, overall are you happy with the build quality and with the way CAD Lights has treated you?

 

SynRG - I'm glad that you are liking the build so far and that it's pushing you to go bigger. I spent a lot of time deciding on the dimensions of my tank and I'll share with you some of the reasons that drove the decision.

 

The CadLights 100g is 48" x 24" x 20" where my tank is 48" x 30" x 18". Something to keep in mind is that the shorter the tank is from front to back the more difficult it is to aqua scape. This was the major reason for me going deeper than their standard 100g. I would really love to have the room and be able to go 48 from front to back. Problem is, not to many people have a room where they can spare a tank sticking out 4 feet from the wall. 30" is a good compromise. The other thing that I wanted was a shallower tank so that I could keep SPS from top to bottom without issue. I also like how I can reach the bottom of the tank during maintenance without getting my arm pit/shirt wet. With 20" I could not have been able to do that.

 

Overall, I am happy with CadLights. I think they offer a nice product for their price point. There are tanks that are nicer but the cost is much higher. If/when I do it over, I would change up the overflow to something that is smaller or outside of the tank. I had Cadlights build my overflow as small as possible but it's still an eye soar and takes up precious room in the tank. I've seen some Cost to Coast overflows that are the ultimate but the Glass Holes overflow would be a decent compromise.

 

Hope this was helpful for you. Thanks again for visiting the journal and leaving a comment for me.

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Hey! What do you feed and how do you feed it? Thanks!

 

Mini-Dude - Not sure if you are referring to fish or coral but I'll share both

 

Fish

I feed the following fish foods, Rods, Prawn Eggs, Cyclopeeze, Oyster Eggs, Nori and a balanced pellet.

 

In general, I feed small amounts twice a day. On even days, the first feeding is a piece of nori placed in a clip. I put the nori in before I leave and it gives the fish something to eat over a long period of the day. The 2nd feeding that day would be a small amount of Rods Food that I thaw in RODI water and then drain the water off. On even days the first feeding is a mix of cyclopeeze, prawn eggs, oyster eggs. Again, I thaw these in RODI and drain the water off. The second feeding is pellets. My thought here is that the frozen foods are high in phosphates which is why I only feed it once a day and always drain the water off.

 

Coral

I feed the following; Zeovit Phol's Xtra, Zeovit Coral Vitalizer, Oyster Feast, Phyto Feast

 

I believe in feeding coral more than Calcium, Alkalinity and Light. I also believe in a good variety. Some might look at the two Zeovit products more of a supplement but I treat both like a food in order to keep nutrients down. My coral feeding is setup on a 4 day rotation where one of the products listed above goes into the tank and then the cycle repeats. The Phyto Feast I feed during the lights on period since this is when phyto plankton is active in the ocean. The Oyster Feast is fed with lights off when the corals are in feed mode. The two Zeovit products go in with lights on. Both of these products have visible impacts on the corals and I like to see those.

 

I will add that this is my current schedule and foods, I like to tinker and try new products. I also vary the amounts but try to keep it on the low end. If I do increase one of the products/foods, it's one at a time and I like to get phosphate readings before continuing or changing something else.

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This tank is beautiful, the write up is amazing, and the attention to detail and craftsmanship is inspiring.

 

the_gats - Thanks, thanks and thanks. I'm glad that their are people who appreciate the write up. Seems like most are just looking at pictures which is fine, pictures are worth 1000 words. We just can't learn as much from pictures as we can the text.

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Man this has gotta be the most in depth tank setup/log I've ever read. Great job with everything.. What kind of substrate is that? I really like how it looks!

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Are you happy with the quality of the CAD stand? Is it possible for you to post a well lit shot of the stand with doors open and closed? Thanks again!

Believe I found the answer to my question above. "twan - the stand was custom but also very inexpensive compared to other stands that I priced. What CadLights did was cut and assemble the glass and then build the stand in the 10 day period where the tank can't be moved. Other than the doors being a bit unlevel, the stand is nice quality and built out of 100% solid maple wood."

 

I was wondering if this was the same build quality of their stand that comes with the 100g Artisan, but I'm assuming this one is built considerably better. Trying to determine if I DIY a stand or have CAD build one. Seems shipping is about the same whether I get the tank with or without the stand.

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